03/13/2024
Wanted to take a few moments to chat about ingredients. This is such a difficult subject since as I type hundreds of new chemicals are being brought to life and poured into our daily products. So lets talk about the ugly. The ingredients we need to stay away from and not go near even with a hazmat suit. I can talk about my top 100, 200, 500 ingredients to avoid, but lets me honest you wouldn't want to read all that and might not even want to know! I get it, ignorance is bliss!! Let's start with my top 5 and go from there :)
Top 5 TOXIC ingredients to Avoid in Skincare:
1.Parabens
If you’re looking for the word “paraben” to be listed under ingredients on your label, you may not find what you are looking for. Paraben is a word that blankets a family of chemicals, similar to how the word fragrance can be used to blanket thousands of chemicals. Instead, you may find words like; methylparabens, propylparabens, butylparabens, and ethylparabens. Many companies justify the use of these parabens by claiming they are the only “safe” and “effective” way to preserve products and that there are no known health risks to this “ingredient”.
Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate is a vegetable based preservative that is safe for use in all products and preforms better than parabens. Unfortunately many companies opt out on using this ingredient because it costs them pennies more per unit. Parabens have also been linked to reproductive toxicity- specifically endocrine disruption, immunotoxicity and ecotoxicology. (Medical studies can be found with a simple google search or by searching the public medical study forum, PubMed.)
2. Phthalates
Phthalates, also know as DEHP, are also a group of chemicals that are used in products to soften and increase flexibility of plastics. Yes, you did read that right. Plastics are used in products, to make matters worse once this plastic is softened by phthalates they can stick to our skin better. You could imagine the health risks of having tiny pieces of plastic stuck to your pores, besides clogging the skin, aging the skin, and suffocating it, there’s a bunch bigger threat at play. Phthalates are huge endocrine disruptors and have been linked to several extreme and fatal birth defects.
Phthalates are extremely dangerous to child, and are often found in children products-like bath wash and lotions. Congress has banned several types of phthalates because of the extreme risk to our health, but they have only banned a few and only in children products.
3. Fragrance
When we think of fragrance most of us think of innocent things like candles, room sprays, or even essential oils. Let me get you in on a little trade secret- companies have found the word “fragrance” is far less scary than what’s actually in the bottle. Even worse, if fragrance is listed on the label then the FDA doesn’t require the company to disclose the thousands of chemicals that make up that fragrance.
The ingredients that make up fragrances have been directly linked to neurological problems, poor immunity, autoimmune disorders, dermatitis, respiratory distress, asthma, eye irritation, cancer, allergies, infertility, miscarriage, and child behavior disorders including learning disabilities, mental disorder, hyperactivity and ADD.
4. Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and/or Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)
SLS and SLES are surfactants- ingredients used to emulsify products and are very common in face cleansers, body washes and household detergents. Both of these ingredients are KNOWN carcinogenic (cancer causing) and its been proven that when used directly on the skin the risk of cancer increases highly.
Besides being a known carcinogenic, SLS and SLES are skin irritants, linked to dandruff, dermatitis and canker sores. When not disposed of properly, these ingredients have been linked to toxicity to fish and other aquatic animals leading to the potential risk of bioaccumulation. The issue of disposing improperly can also lead to these ingredients finding their way into our drinking water, causing bioaccumulation in ourselves.
5. Retinyl palmitate and Retinol
Retinyl palmitate and Retinol are most commonly known as Vitamin A. The term “vitamin” makes it seem harmless, but thats far from the case with this ingredient. As a Aesthetician I understand the crave around Vitamin A, it can help soften wrinkles and diminish crows feet- but at what cost. One of the first things we learn in Aesthetic school is contraindications. Medications and conditions that can prevent us from treating or touching the skin, and products and ingredients that can chemically react to medications clients may be on. During this time we learned about all the things you cant use on a pregnant client, and Vitamin A, Retinol…whatever you want to call it was a big one.
Vitamin A can damage DNA and speed the growth of skin tumors when used directly on the skin. So if you have ever been diagnosed with skin cancer or been at risk, please discontinue any Vitamin A!
This one really surprised me! I always thought retinol was a good ingredient! It might help soften wrinkles, but it’s got some negative sides too. When I found out I was pregnant and was told by my doctor to stop using any products with retinol and vitamin A. Why, I wondered. It turns out that it may damage DNA and speed the growth of skin tumors when used on your skin. Two things you don’t ever want, but especially not when you’re pregnant! a nutrient that may damage DNA and speed the growth of skin tumors when used topically.
Feeling frustrated or overwhelmed by all this new information? Lets take a deep breath, because there are healthy options!
Now lets talk about some healthy and skin happy substitutes for those toxic wannabes!
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
1. Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate is made from plant material, readily biodegradable, with high solubility over a wide pH range and is a excellent swap for Parabens! TGD performs and serves the same purpose without the health and environmental concerns.
2. Lets re-visit that Phthalate situation. If you’re using a product, that REQUIRES this ingredients, than it’s because that product contains plastic. Plastic never has a place in products, if we remove harmful plastics from our products we can eliminate the need for phthalates all together.
3. Essential Oils and Hydrosol
Fragrances just make some smell good, and as stated above they smell good at the cost of your health. Why not have products that smell good, but have the “smell good” ingredient actually have benefits.
Essential Oils in pure state benefit your mood, and also your health. Depending on what oil is chosen for the product, it can affect positive change in our bodies system. Remember that not all Essential Oils are created equal and to check ingredients and source prior to purchasing. Hydrosol’s are a microscopic version of Essential oils, and will provide similar benefits without posing a threat to your health.
4. Soapwort and Castile
SLS and SLES are sudsing agent that give you that “clean” feeling in face cleansers and household detergents. They also put you at risk, so lets talk about some good substitutes!
Soapwort extract forms that soap like lather that we associate with clean. It’s made with leaves and roots from the Saponaria tree. It contains natural occurring glycerin, making it great for soothing irritated skin. Castile soap is a olive based product that can be used to create suds. It’s safe for all skin types and more importantly poses no threat to your health.
5. Squalane and Rose Hip
Squalane is a naturally occurring oil that can be found in our skins lipid barrier, making it amazing in moisture loss prevention. Wrinkling of the skin is caused by moisture loss, just like when we dry out grapes and they become raisins lack of moisture in the skin will cause wrinkling. Squalane also contains antioxidants which help reduce the appearance of dark spots and wrinkles without causing photosensitivity like Retinol.
Rose hip is rich in fatty acids and antioxidants allowing this miracle ingredient to smooth, soften and promote elasticity in the skin. Rose hip has also been used in studies and proven to improve pigmentation of scars and damaged skin, unlike retinol which overtime causes damage to the skin and bodies systems.